Saturday, December 21, 2013

I climbed a "mountain" near my village

I thought I was puffing out my chest. I look silly

    I went hiking with another volunteer nearby to see if I could finally get to the top of this mountain.  I've tried twice already and always got stopped by water (rainy season).  There is only about a month window where the daytime temperature makes hiking pleasant.  In december at night it gets pretty chilly.  By 9am its hot again, but it's not hot hot (please excuse the technical jargon).  It's also dry and windy nowadays, making the hour trek comfortable. 



I saw monkeys, and hopefully can get the picture to upload in the near future.  They tell me (Burkinabe, not the monkeys) that these monkeys are sacred and not to be harmed.  I couldn't get close, but I saw them from about 50 yards as we were climbing up the hill.  I know other monkeys that come near the cornfields are hated by the farmers. 




Wednesday, December 18, 2013

A Year Late

I went to the post office to pick up a package from mom and was surprised when the guy told me I had 2 packages.  I was baffled because I didn't expect another and was even more surprised to learn that it had arrived December 2012, not 2013.  It was a tupperware full of grandma's chex mix similar to the one I posted about over the summer.  The postal worker had the nerve to blame me and ask for more money because of the inconvenience that I caused by leaving it there for me.  These workers are terrible about remembering to put the package receipt slips in the mailbox.  Volunteers often are forced to wait an extra month for the lazy postal workers.  It usually requires a bribe to get them to check for a package without showing a receipt paper.



Being a PC Volunteer, I ate it all and I regret nothing.  Only the pretzels had lost any amount of crispness.

Sugar Cane

Sometimes I can get fresh sugar cane in village.  You strip or cut away the outside half centimeter or so and then you are free to gnaw on whats left, or cut it into chunks if you want, then spit it out when you are done.  It's like chewing gum I guess, because you don't want to swallow it and the sugar doesn't last too long.




Saturday, December 7, 2013

Thanksgiving


We ate a turkey and a duck for thanksgiving.  The guys we got to cook just couldnt wrap their head around the idea of a turducken, so we just ate them normally.

   Banana Bread

Apple Pie

We have a dutch oven so we can make pies.  Matt is the master chef but I thought of the lattice crust on top.

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Kittens



I feel weird naming them, since they will all be living with other volunteers, so for the sake of this post they are, left to right, Scar, Jeremy and Greybeard.




63 takes later, Greybeard is tired and Scar no longer cares

One day my neighbors told me that my cat was pregnant.  She didn't look any bigger.  Shortly thereafter, she went off into the wild to have them and, 4-5 days later, she brought them back.  At first she took them up on top of the house to keep them safe.  When there eyes were open, she brought them down and I let them inside.  

 
 I'm in love with her Jeremy, I just don't know how to say it

 Ferris Bueller museum pose


 They are at that age where they are contantly running around and tackling each other.  It's a constant 3-way battle.  Two fight, and the other wiggles their butt while waiting to pounce. 

They can smell the fish I hide in my backpack

50 cents worth of fish is plenty to keep them all happy.  They've been constantly cracking me up for 3 weeks now.  I'll be sad in early January when they go to their new homes.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Giardia (not for the faint of heart)

So I knew I wouldn't get through these 2 years unscathed.  I'm pretty sure that I have Giardia for a second time (undiagnosed at the moment).  I say I'm pretty sure because I had it in September and my symptoms are similar.

This is what's inside me

Giardia is an intestinal parasite.  With it, life gets pretty uncomfortable.  For about 12-16 hours, they activate, or whatever they do, I don't understand the biologic process; but they go into jerk mode and I can't really eat until they chill out.  Lots of gas and diarrhea and nausea ensue.  Then for 5-6 days, the sleep or something and I'm a normal person again.  It's difficult to realize that that's the case because the first 1 or 2 instances can be attributed to food poisoning or a stomach bug.  By the third time, you can be certain if you have been keeping track of symptoms.  

So how do I get these out?

Treatment is simple.  Take these pills for 5 days and it should be gone.  Maybe I didn't get it all out last time, maybe I got it again (there is alot of dirty water here), or maybe it's another type of parasite.  Either way, I have to get it diagnosed again.  Here's the worst part.  I need to send in a stool sample.  I could just go all the way to Ouagadougou, but I don't want to miss class for 3 days or sit in an oven of a bus for 8 hours just for some intestinal discomfort.  So I have a MIF kit in my house: a little plastic medical container with preservative solution where I have to put my sample.  I send it in to the medical office by a bus company, and they look at it, then send me my medication by the same type of transport.  Should take 4-5 days.  Just in time for the next visit from my parasite buddies.  But as Calvin's dad would say, Giardia builds character.  It will only make me appreciate America more when I go back.

A disturbing window into village mentality and development strategies

It's important to consider, when doing community development, how incentives can train people to agree with certain ideas.  For many generations, the general idea behind aiding developing countries has been to provide financial or material support.  There are cars and minibuses, brought from Europe, but few mechanics because no one brought these skills.  I can't go anywhere in Burkina Faso without someone asking me, "What did you bring me?" like my siblings and I would ask my dad when he would return from a business trip.  I often see other people visiting my village or a nearby city in order to build a church or a kitchen at a health center or to donate books to a school.  These people then talk about the importance of going to church or cooking baby food for malnourished babies or of kids reading.  You won't find a single villager who will disagree with any of these imported values.  I have seen evidence in my time here that suggests that the villagers agree with foreigners out of respect. They don't want to offend their benefactors.

Burkinabe people are certainly aware of their country's place in the global ranking of countries as far as development is concerned.  Aside from a common misconception of Americans as millionaires all around, they see the disparity in resources, education and the detrimental effect of corruption.  Everyone I talk with in village will rail about how necessary education is, and it has taken me over a year here to realize that they talk about the importance of education because they know I'm a teacher.  It's a difficult subject, but it's necessary if Burkinabe and Americans really are serious about working together in development.  Their values reflect ours when they have a free teacher (me) within earshot.  When in the privacy of their own home, I don't doubt that they value the education of their boys; I do doubt that their opinion of the roles of women has changed much in the past 100 years.

A short time ago, I was in my house making lunch when a heard someone on my porch.  In Burkina, if you go to visit someone, you clap three times upon entering their property and you take a seat on the porch and wait to be acknowledged.  I often have students calling on me so I finished what I was doing and went outside to what I assumed would be a slick youngster asking for the answer to a math problem or to take him with me to America (jokingly of course).  What I saw was a young girl, maybe 13 years old, with a notebook.  It is early in the school year, so I don't know all of my 132 students by heart.  I assumed she was one of my 7th graders and went about washing my tomatoes while asking her what she wanted.  She mumbled responses and I realized her french wasn't good enough to be a 7th graders.  It's difficult to guess a child grade by their age because 4th graders can vary from 10-15 and 7th graders can vary from 13-18.  She told me she was a 4th grader and finally had my attention because I realized she wasn't my student, not even at my school.

Me:  "Ok, what do you want?"
Her:  "Where is your wife"

Here I explained that I don't have a wife.  That it wouldn't be nice of me to leave my wife in America for 2 years while I went off to Africa.  I gave my usual talk on how Americans don't usually marry before 20-22 and often wait till closer to 30.  At this point, satisfied that she wouldn't be encroaching on any marriage obligations, she told me, "I was sent here to be your wife."  I thought she misspoke because of her elementary school french.  Nope, after several minutes of me trying to explain that she was too young to be my wife, she insisted, "Madame sent me and my father is in agreement."  She was referring to a woman that she works for as a housekeeper, a woman that I know very well, who makes breakfast doughnuts for students and is married to an elementary school teacher.  A woman who is better educated than the majority of women in my village, who is from a different part of the country.  I thought, this can't be happening.  I couldn't tell her that it isn't possible to give someone away like that because her french and my Jula aren't up to that standard.  So I wrote in french "women aren't objects to give away" and told her to leave and to show that to her dad.  I went back inside to take my pasta out and went back outside to find her still there, insisting that she was there to "help me."  It took me a full 10 minutes and 3 languages to finally get her to leave, she was that serious.

With the help of my friend, whom I use for village misunderstandings, I talk to her husband who says it was all a joke.  "We joke like that here."  Well you also sweep things under the rug here.  Then we talked with her the next day, the woman who sent the girl, and she says she had no idea.  That maybe last year she mentioned it in passing and maybe the girl got the wrong idea.  Ok, why are you and your husband giving different stories?

Women often joke with me about finding me a wife, because it's strange for a professional of my age to not be married here.  I joke back, saying if they send Rihanna over then let's do it.  Everyone loves Rihanna here.  This woman actually did it though, with a very young teenager, who definitely didn't think it was a joke.

It's frustrating because this should be an excellent opportunity to talk about a cultural value that needs improving: women (especially children) shouldn't be given away.  But I couldn't get that far because she refused to acknowledge that she even sent the girl.  Even if we suspend our sense and assume that you really were joking, this girl was not in on the joke.  She was prepared to be my wife unless she is an oscar level actress.

This refusal to acknowledge a mistake is very common.  I have caught many cheaters on my tests.  It's hard not to, when you are crowded into a 4 foot long desk with 2 other students, but they still know it's wrong.  It doesn't matter how much evidence I put in a student's face, he or she will NEVER admit to cheating.  I have shown kids indisputable proof that they copied off of each other, they will deny it until the day they die.  Their classmates will acknowledge they cheated, but when one of those classmates is caught the next test, he will now deny everything he did.  I can only laugh in these situations at how obviously they are lying.  

So when you combine these two characteristics, the easily veiled social values and the refusal to acknowledge a mistake, you often find situations where education, and thus change, is impossible.  Back to my marriage example, if the woman would just admit that she was in the wrong in sending that girl over, or even jokingly sending that girl over, then we can have a positive discussion on how the practice of treating women as bargaining chips is wrong in any culture that wants to develop.  But we couldn't, because she would never acknowledge any wrong doing and would not discuss it further.  
The idea of 14 year olds being available for marriage might not be that difficult to change, but the villagers won't even admit that it happens, and will swear up and down to your face that it's dead wrong.  I've been to weddings where the future wife was a teenager being wed to a rich out-of-towner that she certainly didn't pick or even know before the wedding.  You can't even begin to introduce the idea that a practice is wrong until you get the practitioner to acknowledge that it is practiced.  I have only had success in this with children, and only a small percentage of them at that.  When I look at these results, I wonder how anyone can hope to help at all by coming in for one week and building a building.  After 14 months in my village I can confidently say that we don't need more churches, we don't even need more schools.  We need more teachers.  14 year olds are being offered for marriage, wives are being beaten and children are being forgotten.  We either invest long term in knowledge and abilities or we leave, because rewarding these values with our donations is positively reinforcing ideas that are detrimental to the majority of the population.

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Science Camp

I spent the last week or so in Orodara for a science camp.  We (7 volunteers) each brought 4 students and 2 teachers from our villages and threw them all together in a great big beaker of education.  It was a little different than camp GLOW; there were fewer camp style games and activities and more formal classes.  It was a chance for the Burkinabe teachers to work side by side with volunteers to practice teaching methods and experiments.



When kids here ask questions, instead of just raising their hands they snap their fingers and say "moi, moi, moi".  I guess it can be hard to get the teacher's attention when there are 80 other kids.


Only 12 students?!?!  I can breath a little. 

We made some soy tofu.  It's starting to catch on a little.  You will see women selling tofu kabaabs in bigger cities.  I love it when I can find it because it's fairly cheap and preferable to the meat that is usually available.  I'm not a big fan of a lot of fat and bones.  


We also got the kids to make their own liquid soap to show how easy it can be.  When it was done, they all got an empty coke bottle's worth to take home.



 Here I am with my 4 students on the left and my two teachers on the right.  We were so young...


We split the kids up into groups so that kids weren't always with the others from the same village.  We were the team yellow extra terrestrials (they even came up with the name).


Most of the names were space related.  That is, in my experience, the scientific topic that interests the kids most.  They are so astounded by how big things can be and how far away stars are.  I guess American kids are similar.  By the way it translates from the Gouin language, the stars are the moon's children.  Aww

The whole camp together.  I like my positioning.  

Of course, not everything was classes and note taking.  We played tug of war, made smores (with care package graham crackers and marshmallows), played soccer and even watched movies on a projector.  They loved the Lion King and we watched some Planet Earth videos.








Finally some pictures where they smile.  Burkinabe are so serious in pictures.

Looks to me like that frisbee is her future, and it's gonna go far
I'll just show myself out







Laundry Day

This is all you need to wash clothes:


Bar soap, detergent, two bins/buckets and water and you can ash just about anything.  If there is ever a prolonged power shortage and the washer/dryer doesn't work, don't fear, Barry is here.


You have the soapy water and the rinsing water.  To make soapy water, add detergent powder (about half cup worth) and mix it around.  Agitate the water with your hand much like you would beat an egg.



Next you will want to soak the clothes in the soapy water, at least 15 minutes, some people do it over night.  I like to start with shirts while the water is clean, and then use the same water for the underwear.  I like to leave the bar of soap in the water too, so that is softens up.


Remember, the more effort you put in to washing the clothes every time, the faster they will wear out.  Because of this, I only focus on the armpits and collar of shirts and spot clean for stains.  The rest doesn't really need to be scrubbed.  

You will be using the shirt to clean itself by rubbing fabric together, in between your knuckles (the middle knuckles, not the punching ones).  Grab the shirt on either side of the stain or target area and fold the shirt over itself.  You should have a handful of fabric in both hands, and rub the shirt against itself.  Don't over do it, if you soaked enough then the stain should be out before 5-10 seconds.  I also use this method on underwear; with pants and towels I use the always reliable washboard.

Ring out all of the soap you can, plop it in the rinsing bucket and hang it up.


Turn your shirts and pants inside-out so that blowing dust doesn't erase all of your hard work and the sun doesn't rob you of your beautiful blues and reds (UV radiation breaks polyesters and cottons over time).



Sunday, September 1, 2013

My Market

Every five days is my market day.  Lots of people come into town in order to sell their goods.  It's also village wide drinking day.  They have this stuff called dolo that some familes make and sell, made from millet or sorghum and its kind of like a light beer.  I'm not much of a fan but it makes every market day a party day.
I can usually find onions or spices in my village, but market day is the day to get all kinds of vegetables and grains or beans.  That's when I buy beans to make cheesy beans and rice at home.  There are dozens of tomato ladies (btw women sell the food and men sell knick knacks or clothes or hardware items, usually) and onion ladies and drink baggy ladies as I mentioned in a previous post.  I can usually find limes on market day along with garlic and some better spices.


Here is my neighbor at her stall in the market.  She sells salt and chicken bouillion and peppers, also peanut butter occaisionally.  Her grandkids help me around the house alot (weeding, getting water etc) and like to use my porch light to do their homework.  

Market day is a great day to get tools or bike repaired because there are all kinds of handymen around.  You can also buy pots and pans and plastic things like buckets and strainers.  There are fabric vendors you can buy cloth from to take to the tailor.  Here is a quick little video of part of the market, you can here me talking in the end and can see my neighbor in her stall.  Some guy is bothering me to take his picture and give him money.  


So that's market day in a nutshell.

I want to put longer videos up but the internet is never good enough.

Friday, August 30, 2013

Saturday, August 24, 2013

When I'm Thirsty

Most drinks, especially in villages, are sold in little plastic bags that were hand-filled and tied.  You just nibble off one of the corners and start sipping.  They range from chilled pump water to delicious sugary drinks.  They are very cheap at 25-50cfa (500cfa = 1$).  Unfortunately, this means anyone can afford them, adding to the already pervasive littering problem.  Trash cans don't exist.  I should add that most of these drinks are prepared through boiling, so are usually pretty safe; though the bags might be dirty on the outside.


The purple one's are dahjii (french bissap).  It's made from the bissap plants by boiling the leaves in water and adding sugar.  Very good but not very thirst quenching because of the amount of sugar.  The gold ones are serajii ( I don't know the french name) and made from baobob trees (the fruit?) and tastes kind of like applesauce.  The white ones are mugujii and I'm not sure what it's made from, but they add millet to it so it's fairly nutritious and my favorite from a taste standpoint, though I can't describe the taste.  The other color (lime?) is a ginger drink and is very spicy.  I don't like it much.

I come across the occasional coke in village that is sufficiently cold, but the majority of my sweet satisfaction comes from these little guys because candy is not common/good.  Surprisingly though I find myself missing salty/fatty foods from America more than dessert even though salty/fatty foods are easy to find here and dessert doesn't exist.

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Tree Planting

Once I had become comfortable in my school with language and with my workload, I rounded up some kids who were interested in science and made a science club.  We learn about general scientific ideas and practices and we do experiments.  Hurray! 

Seeing as how everyone seems to think that trees are good, I decided to plant some trees.  I got my school to buy the seeds and I got my kids to plant them following an experimental method that I came up with at first (baby steps) and they can expand on in the future if they want.  This is the product of our first round of plantings:


Those are bags used for drinking water filled with soil and a seed; let me explain.  There is no plumbing in the village, and drinking water from pumps is not a reliable source, health-wise, and drinking from wells is horrendous.  So what they do here is to take water and purify it before sealing it in rectangular plastic bags of 330 or 500mL.  These are usually really cheap and safe to drink.  One problem is that you are left with thousands of these bags lying around empty after people drink them as trashcans are rare in big cities and non existent in villages.  You can take these bags and open one side, fill it with soil and you've got a tree's new home.

How did I get all these bags?  Kids.  Little ones.  I find a gang of 7 year olds, they are everywhere, and say every 25 bags you find I give you a piece of candy and they go bananas because they are not used to being rewarded for helping out an adult.  I ended up with 800 bags.


It works better to use two bags for every tress, to give the roots more room to grow.  This time we used a ratio of 1:1 soil to sand because I wasn't able to get any manure.  In the future, we will test the differences in germination using different amounts and types of manure.  To be honest, there are enough trees in this region of Burkina Faso, but the kids can at least see the scientific method and practice writing up experiments.



We had a lot of fun mixing up the soil; they thought it was so weird to see a professor digging around in dirt with students.  Hopefully I can update with pictures of healthy sprouts in the near future.

What to do during summer vacation

Now that everyone in my village is out in the fields working everyday, I do not have a whole lot going on.  So what to do? Banfora is a quick 45 minute bike ride away, as is the restaurant Calypso. Great pizza place, but they also have this: 


It's a brochette, like a shishkabob, with really good meat, tomatos and even pineapple.  Best brochette in country that I've seen.  Typically meat is really fatty with little bones everywhere.  Having lean pieces of nothing but meat is huge.  There is even wifi good enough to load a whole webpage in under 5 minutes!

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Mango season is almost over

For about 3 months there this was a daily reality for me:


I get paid somewhere in the tens of thousands of Francs CFA every month (a gentleman never discusses his salary) and this baby runs about 50cfa in my village market not 300 meters from my front door.  Jealous?  Well now mango season is going, they will be available until Novemberish, but not like this.  So juicy and perfect.  

Camp Glow

Some of my best memories from my high school days are the summer leadership camps I did.  Camp Shelton, Navy Summer Seminar and all the JROTC camps.  Good times.

I participated in the camp G2LOW (girls and guys leading our world) last week and the kids (60 of them) loved it too.  6 solid days and 7 nights, 6am to 10pm, we were at it, teaching anything from future planning to sex education, even campfire songs.  


Me and 9 other volunteers were able to bring 6 kids from each of our villages, who were then split into 6 teams of 10 with team names and colors.

Sharks and Minnows but with Malaria

Every day we would all wake up at 6am so that the kids could get washed up, something that is very important here culturally.  I prefer night showers.  Then we would do some warm-up exercises and breakfast.


We had classes 3 times a day and outdoor activities also.  The kids got to learn about making goals, dealing with violence and even had a career panel.  I taught the sex ed session for the 30 boys.

Teehee, he drew a penis
 It's amazing (and a little scary) to me how little the kids knew, despite their being around 13-14 years old.  I don't think its very common for parents here, especially in the villages, to talk to their kids about sex.  Getting to learn all of the anatomy of men's and women's bodies and how babies are made (not by genies or god) is something that these kids don't get very often and I had a lot of fun teaching it.  The kids never make wow noises or gasp when I'm teaching math.

 Those are condoms filled with water

Burkinabe rarely smile in pics unless you make them                                                                                                        Like here

This is something the kids never really get to experience.  The culture in Burkina can be strict and repressive, and kids are not encouraged to express themselves.  If they speak their maternal language or joke around, they are punished harshly and public embarrassment is a common strategy.  If they speak Jula at school at all, they have to wear a special necklace with animal bones on it, I'm not really sure on the cultural history on that one.  It reminds me of a dunce cap though.

So, in a new and strange camp environment, where kids know they won't be hit or humiliated, it can be very difficult to keep them focused.  Some of them don't know self discipline and in group they rarely stay on task unless it is a soccer game.

At night we would do electives.  Things like astronomy, card games, arts and crafts and even salsa dancing.  Naturally, I taught the Salsa/Bachata class at nights.










I was lucky enough to have THE Marlow from the village down the road to help me teach.  She is leaving the country in 2 weeks as her 2 years is finished.  I'm sad that she's leaving, or am I just jealous that she gets to eat Taco Bell within the month?


It was so great seeing the kids have so much fun and so heartbreaking when they were all crying on the last day.  Burkinabe don't cry, they're like spartans, so I would use that as one indicator that we did something that will impact their lives.